From the buzzing and busy Capital City to the peace and quiet of quaint Scottish Borders towns and villages, the route from Edinburgh to Dumfries will take you on a memorable journey through rolling hills, wild moorland and peaceful river villages. Discover over 12 Scottish castles, charming villages and towns steeped in history, tradition and culture.
The capital city Edinburgh is a fantastic place to start your visit in Scotland. It has a remarkable setting built on and around 7 hills, that is unlike any other city in the world. The city centre of Edinburgh manages to blend Old town charms with modern architecture like Edinburgh Castle, which sits alongside the new Scottish parliament and Our Dynamic Earth Exhibition. Arthur’s Seat, a fascinating extinct volcano and one of the 7 peaks, is another stunning feature dominating the city skyline and is the perfect place to go for an afternoon stroll. On a clear day the summit gives spectacular views over The Firth of the Forth and Ochil Hills.
A thrilling city, bursting with a vibrant culture, Edinburgh has many theatres and festivals which people from all over the world, come to enjoy. Visit Princes Street gardens-a public park since 1846 and home to many monuments. Perhaps the most famous monument here is the Scott Monument, built in 1846 as a testimony to Sir Walter Scott’s contribution to Scottish literature.
One of the most popular areas to visit in Edinburgh is The Old Town, or more commonly known as The Royal Mile. Visitors flock here to soak up the atmosphere of ancient buildings, cobbled streets and the murky history of times gone by. The Royal Mile was given its name, as it is the ridge linking Edinburgh Castle with Holyrood Palace. The Royal Mile is divided into four separate streets - Castlehill, Lawnmarket, High Street and Cannongate
Castlehill is situated at the uppermost stretch of the Royal Mile and is home to Edinburgh Castle. Edinburgh Castle is situated on top of another extinct volcano and is the best-known and most visited attraction of Historical Buildings in Scotland. It is instantly recognisable and is a powerful national symbol. Edinburgh Castle includes many attractions including St Margaret's Chapel - Edinburgh's oldest building, exhibitions that include the history of the Crown Jewels, the Stone of Destiny and The Prisoners of War and the traditional One o'clock Gun. The gun which fires everyday from Monday to Saturday at exactly One o’clock started as a means of giving an accurate time check to the ships in Leith Harbour, situated 2 miles away, and has been continued to this day. As you leave the castle you can visit the former reservoir for the Old Town. It has since been converted into The Edinburgh Old Town Weaving Centre, and visitors can observe the whole process of weaving before selecting their own tartan. A few doors down you will come across the Outlook Tower and it has been a top visitor attraction since 1853. Its viewing balcony is one of Edinburgh's best vantage points, which offers spectacular views right across the city and the Firth of Forth. It is recommended to visit at midday when there are fewer shadows.
The Lawnmarket, which as its name suggests was once a marketplace. With narrow streets winding through a maze of buildings, it is here that you will find Lady Stair's House situated in Lady Stair's Close. This now serves as Edinburgh's literary museum that features a collection of personal mementoes including items that belonged to Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott and Robert Louis Stevenson.
Walking further down you will enter into the High Street area - the longest section of the Royal mile. Here you will discover sites such as Parliament Square, where you can admire the monument of King Charles II and you will also have the chance to visit John Knox's House - the gentleman who was responsible for the Scottish Reformation during the 15th Century.
The final section, the Cannongate has been subject to some of the most ambitious restoration programmes in the Old Town. Examples of this include Chessel's court, a mid-eighteenth century development and most recently The Scottish Parliament that opened its doors to the public in November 2004 amid much controversy and well over budget!
At the foot of Cannongate you will find a host of other attractions including Holyrood Palace, Holyrood Abbey and Holyrood Park and not to mention Our Dynamic Earth-a visitor attraction that will take you on an exciting journey back in time to learn about our planet.
You'll want to spend at least 2 to 3 days taking in the sights and sounds of the beautiful city of Edinburgh before heading out to the east on your Scottish borders tour. A visit to Dirleton Castle, just outside Edinburgh will give an insight into the treasures that await you on this magnificent journey. Built in the late 1200's by John De Vaux, this historic castle looks impressive sitting on top of a rocky outcrop. Like many of the strongholds in the area, Dirleton's ownership went back and forth between Scotland and England during the wars of Independence in the 13th and 14th Century. Robert the Bruce finally disregarded it after the Battle of Bannockburn in 1314, in order to prevent any further use of it by the English.
First stop on route is Dunbar - an east coast town with a stormy past. Although it became a Royal Burgh in 1445, the history of the area goes back much further. It was during the Dark Ages that the Pict's laid claim to the Lothian region and began to establish themselves at Dunbar. The Pictish fortress was captured in 849 by the Scots being led by Kenneth MacAlpin, the first King of Scotland but it was not until 1070 that a stone castle was built on the site, by the Earl of Dunbar. Dunbar castle's ruins which are still there today, stand on the rocks above the New Harbour. The Earl of Bothwell brought Mary Queen of Scots here after he abducted her and they returned later to the castle after their marriage. The Scottish Parliament were so worried about the power that this castle seemed to have over the country that they ordered its destruction after Mary Queen of Scot's surrender and abdication.
Coming back to the 21st Century, Dunbar is a busy town and The Belhaven brewery is well worth a visit. A tour of this working brewery demonstrates the ins and outs of beer making, and offers a sample tasting at the end! At the East Links family Park you will find lots to do with pony rides, a train safari, go karting and a giant maze. Dunbar High Street has a wide range of shops, so be sure to take some time to find that perfect souvenir.
When leaving the town, take in the beautiful scenery of the Lammermuir Hills, which lie to the south of Dunbar, before heading onwards.
Berwick-upon-Tweed, the most northerly town in England is the next stop on the route. Like most of the settlements on the border between Scotland and England, this town, which began life as a small Anglo-Saxon settlement in the Kingdom of Northumbria, changed hands between Scotland and England many times between the period of 1018 and 1482. It was in 1482 that Berwick-upon-Tweed became a permanent part of England although there is still much controversy surrounding this issue. Many people believe that as the town lies on the northern banks of the Scottish River Tweed, then the heart of the community is Scottish. In fact you will find most of the commercial banks here are Scottish and even the local football team plays in the Scottish league. However citizens must abide by English laws. Until the Reform Act of 1885, the town had the status of a 'free burgh' meaning that in any Acts of Parliament it had to be mentioned separately from the rest of the country.
This fascinating town has a lot to offer from the 12th Century ruin of Berwick Castle built by King David I, and the Berwick Barracks. The barracks construction was completed in 1725, originally planned after the Jacobite uprising on 1715. This was the first barracks of its kind in England and provided a home for over 600 men. The last residents vacated the barracks in 1964. Nowadays the site presents an interesting look at army life, including both warfare and everyday, ordinary soldier life. From here why not visit Chainbridge Honey Farm and learn the history and biology of honey bees, wasps and bumble bees. There is even an observation hive for a closer look at our stripy friends!
Heading west from Berwick-upon-Tweed, back once more into Scotland you will reach Kelso. With the largest market square in Scotland it is clear that Kelso was an important market town for many years. Street names such as Woodmarket and Horsemarket show this even more clearly. Kelso is also home to Roxburgh Castle. This 12th Century courtyard fortress, owned by the Duke and Duchess of Roxburgh, was occupied by both the English and the Scots at various points in history and has been destroyed and rebuilt several times. A very interesting feature of the castle is actually a holly tree situated in the grounds. This tree marks the spot where King James II was killed in 1460 by an exploding cannon, whilst trying to regain Roxburgh Castle from the English.
If it's some high-speed fun you’re after, then ladies hats at the ready, a visit to the Kelso Racecourse should not be missed. The home of Scottish borders racing, this site has been in operation since the mid-19th Century with the foundation stone of the stand being laid in 1822. The history of the Kelso races goes much further back than this, with races being held in various locations in the area as far back as 1734. It is because of this deep veined tradition that the Kelso Racecourse offers the allure of past times mixed with the modern facilities, to give a truly fantastic day out.
Heading another 20 minutes on, and you reach the warm and welcoming town of Jedburgh. With a 9-hole course and a driving range here, golf fanatics can get some practise while in the area. Visit the spectacular ancient monument of Jedburgh Abbey, originally built as a priory in 1138 by King David I, the Augustinian Abbey stands high on the left bank of the Jed Water River. Amble gently down the waters edge and you will come to Jedburgh Castle Jail. Built on the original site of Jedburgh Castle, this jail which was built in 1820, is the last remaining example of a Howard Reform prison. The museum here, will tell you all about prison life and the history of the town.
There is plenty more to do while here from clay shooting to wonderful walks. Jedforest Deer and Farm Park lies slightly south of the town and here you will find many trails through 800 acres of beautiful rolling hills. Here you'll find a magnificent herd of Red Deer, a large collection of rare breeds of sheep, pigs, chickens and ducks and there is a chance to see a bird of prey demonstration.
Lying south of the town is Ferniehirst Castle, which has been in the hands of the Kerr family for 500 years. The first castle was built here around 1470 and was established to hold the gate to Scotland, controlling the road south to Newcastle. The original entrance to the castle leads to the ‘Left-handed Staircase’. The story goes that Sir Andrew Kerr, who was himself left-handed, had all of his knights trained to use their weapons with their left hands thus leading to the expression ‘corrie-fisted’ or ‘Kerr handed’ for somebody who is left handed today.
Travelling through the rich, green farmland next stop, on route is Hawick, (pronounced ‘Hoyk’), a charming town which lies on the banks of the River Teviot. A frequent winner of national floral awards, a settlement was founded here in the 7th Century by the Angles. The town suffered greatly with the wars of Independence and the moving border between Scotland and England in the 14th, 15th and 16th Centuries and sadly in 1513 nearly all of the fighting-age men were killed in the brutal battle of Flodden. The town stayed in the hands of the Scots though through to the present day and for the last few hundred years, textiles have been the main economy. Nowadays Hawick is well known for the low prices you can get on knitwear in the many factory shops that line the streets. You can also discover the processes of cloth manufacturing at the Wrights of Trowmill factory which makes for a very interesting afternoon.
When leaving Hawick, a stop at the foreboding Hermitage Castle is well worth it. The overbearing walls of this stone castle date back to the 14th Century, built by the 1st Earl of Douglas, but a wooden castle was first built here in 1242 by Sir Nicholas de Soulis, butler to the King of Scotland. This man’s reputation of witchcraft, child abduction and even murder ended with the locals rising up against him and supposedly boiling him alive in molten lead. There have been many sightings of ghostly apparitions and strange screams heard at the castle so keep your eyes peeled for any spooky happenings!
Langholm is the next break in your trip westwards to Dumfries. This is a picturesque town which is situated at the convergence of the River Esk and Ewes Water. Langholm became well known in the 19th Century for its production of Tweed. The first mill was built here in 1789 and the woollen industry still plays an important part in life in Langholm today. It was in the 1500’s that a castle was built here which led to the growth of the pretty little town, there are however only a few visible remains of the stronghold today. While in town be sure to look out for signs of the great engineering mastermind, Thomas Telford. Born nearby in 1757, Telford spent his apprenticeship here before he went on to build many buildings, bridges, harbours and of course the famous Caledonian Canal, in his lifetime. A practise wall of his own work can still be seen in Langholm to this day.
A further 20 minutes south west of Langholm and you will come across the town of Gretna Green. Located on the old coaching route between London and Edinburgh; this was the first village you arrived at once crossing the border and today it is best known as the Wedding Capital of the UK. For centuries lovers have nipped across the border from the South to take advantage of the Scottish marriage laws, which allow people as young as 16 years old to marry without their parents consent. While in town make sure you stop by The Old Blacksmith’s Shop Centre. It was from here that the 'legend of the anvil' emerged as many run-away weddings began in abundance since 1754. The hammering of the Anvil to seal the marriage vows was a notorious sound. It is said that like the metals they forged, couples were joined together in the heat of the moment and bound together for eternity.
The town as we see it today, actually has a much younger history than many of the towns on this route. It was during WWI that a huge cordite factory was built on the shores of the Solway Firth. Over 20,000 munitions workers from all over the British Empire came here to work and so in 1915, Gretna was founded. It was Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, who was a war correspondent at the time, who described the mixing process of the explosive paste, cordite, as the Devil’s Porridge. Today you can visit the aptly named, Devil’s Porridge Exhibition, to learn more about both the munitions factory, H.M. Factory Gretna and the development of the town.
As a self-contained community Gretna had everything it needed from it’s own police force to a school, hospital, shops and laundry. It was also the first new town in Britain to be sponsored by the government. Nowadays the population of the town has diminished to around 3000 however Gretna Green still manages to maintain its romantic image.
From the 20th Century buildings of Gretna town, head out to the scenic countryside to visit the Lochmaben Stone. This Neolithic granite boulder which has been dated around 3000BC was used as a regular meeting place for the head of the Scottish and English marches which were held on Truce days. The 2 metre high stone saw the discussion of many complaints and the exchanging of many cross-border prisoners until the Union of the Crowns in 1603 ended these pleasantries. The stone is a visible reminder of the turbulence of Scottish history, conjuring feelings of times gone by, you should definitely try and see it before heading north on the A75 to Dumfries.
Dumfries, often known as the Queen of the South, is the largest town in the South West of Scotland. Originally a market town, there is plenty to see and do here from shopping and relaxing to delving into the town's long and interesting history. Dumfries did not actually become a permanent part of Scotland until 1234 under the reign of Alexander II. Before this the land belonged to England and thus many problems for Dumfries came from England between the 1300's and 1600's. Outside forces were not the only troubles Dumfries encountered, in 1659, 9 women were burned alive for witchcraft and in 1868, Scotland's last public hanging took place here.
On the less gruesome side of things, Dumfries was home to Robert Burns in the final years of his life before he finally died here in 1796. You can visit his home here and even his favourite drinking spot, Globe Inn. The Robert Burns Centre also makes for a fascinating visit. Dumfries was home to another literary master, J.M. Barrie, the author of the classic Peter Pan, who moved here in his early years, gaining most of his secondary education at Dumfries Academy.
Today's Dumfries is a busy town which still plays host to a vibrant art scene. The Dumfries and Galloway annual Arts festival takes place in spring, while the Storm of Arts and Entertainment of Gaelforce festival takes place in late summer.
